Four weeks, 880 kilometres and not a single metre below 3,600 m above sea level. What is a cycling expedition across South America like when altitude, rather than distance, is the greatest challenge? This is the story of the all-women stage of the “Biking Diaries” relay, from La Paz in Bolivia, along Lake Titicaca and on to Cusco and Machu Picchu in Peru.
AN ALL-WOMEN CYCLING EXPEDITION FROM LA PAZ TO CUSCO
CREATED IN COLLABORATION WITH: Paulina Grochal / @dzienniki_rowerowe
AN ALL-WOMEN TEAM ON THE “DZIENNIKI ROWEROWE” RELAY
A few words about us before we set off. We were the all-women team taking part in the “Biking Diaries” (@dzienniki_rowerowe) relay, a cycling project crossing South America in the spirit of Polish traveller Kazimierz Nowak. Our stage stood out because it was the only one completed entirely by women. We began in La Paz, the world’s highest administrative capital, at around 3,640 m above sea level. The altitude was also why we arrived several days before the start, giving ourselves time to acclimatise.
THE ROUTE: FROM LA PAZ VIA LAKE TITICACA TO CUSCO
Political tensions in Bolivia during our stay led to frequent protests and roadblocks. We therefore followed the main road towards the Peruvian border at Desaguadero. Along the way, we passed dozens of blockades. Fortunately, we could ride through most of them, although at times we had to carry the bikes and luggage on our backs.
After crossing the border, we reached one of the most beautiful sections of the entire route, following the shore of Lake Titicaca, the world’s highest navigable lake. The area is filled with remarkable places: the pre-Inca Chullpa burial towers, the floating Uros islands built and maintained by Indigenous communities using totora reeds, and the mysterious Amaru Muru gateway, also known as the Gate of the Gods. After leaving the lake behind, the Altiplano opened up before us again, with breathtaking views of the Andes and countless herds of alpacas and llamas.
The highest point of our cycling route was Abra La Raya Pass at 4,335 m above sea level. Despite travelling in the dry season, when rainfall is statistically unlikely, thunderstorms forced us to change our plans several times. As we approached Cusco, the roads became busier and the tourist infrastructure more developed. Our relay stage ended in Cusco, but we took the opportunity to stay longer, explore the surrounding area by bike and visit its landmarks, including Machu Picchu, one of the New Seven Wonders of the World.
THE EXPEDITION IN NUMBERS
• Route: La Paz (Bolivia) – Cusco (Peru)
• Distance: approx. 880 km
• Highest point: Abra La Raya Pass, 4,335 m above sea level
• Duration: 4 weeks, including acclimatisation
• Team: all women
LOGISTICS: ACCLIMATISATION MATTERS MORE THAN FITNESS
The entire journey lasted four weeks, and a significant part of that time was devoted to acclimatisation and logistics rather than riding. Before getting on the bikes, we spent several days in and around La Paz so our bodies could adapt to elevations above 3,600 m. This was not a luxury but a necessity. Once you reach the Lake Titicaca region, there is no quick way to descend, and the route remains above 3,800 m for a long time.
The relay format provided the essential cycling and camping equipment. MTB bikes, panniers and tents were waiting at the starting point, ready to go, and at the end of our stage in Cusco we handed them over to the next team. Finding food and accommodation along the route was rarely a problem. Even very small villages usually have a local hostel and a simple place to eat. Nevertheless, it is worth being prepared for every eventuality.
GEAR FOR A CYCLING EXPEDITION IN THE ANDES
BIKES AND LUGGAGE
We completed the route on Kross Level 6 mountain bikes. They handled the Altiplano extremely well, where paved roads alternate with gravel sections on the descents into towns. We carried our luggage in panniers, including a basic camping setup with tents, sleeping mats and two gas stoves. Each of us also carried a repair kit for different scenarios, although fortunately we only needed to use it a few times.
DOWN CLOTHING AND SLEEPING BAGS
Ultralight Cumulus® clothing and down sleeping bags proved to be a genuine game changer in terms of low weight, thermal performance and packability. On an expedition where every gram in the panniers matters and night-time temperatures can fall well below freezing, down insulation made a decisive difference to our comfort and safety:
FASTIER LADY rain jacket: this waterproof and windproof shell was with us almost every day. Exceptionally light and breathable, it still provided effective protection from sudden showers and the strong, cold winds of the Altiplano.
INCREDILITE ENDURANCE LADY down jacket: our essential layer at every stop and every evening. With minimal weight and excellent insulation, it kept us warm when temperatures dropped rapidly after sunset.
X-LITE down sleeping bag: essential for freezing nights at elevations of 3,800–4,300 m, where temperatures regularly fall below zero. Depending on our individual sensitivity to cold, we used models customized to our needs through the configurator.
CHECK THEM OUT:
SUN PROTECTION
At these elevations, the sun requires just as much attention as the cold, as UV radiation is particularly intense. High-SPF sunscreen, caps and reliable sunglasses are essential. One of my personal favourites was a lightweight, breathable top with UV protection.
HOW MUCH DOES AN EXPEDITION LIKE THIS COST?
Bolivia proved noticeably less expensive than Peru. A local set meal cost around 1,90 à 2,30 €, while a night in a hospedaje was typically 4,65–9,30 €. The flight was the biggest expense of the entire journey, rather than day-to-day life on the ground. That is good news for anyone planning their own bikepacking trip in the Andes: once you reach the continent, the daily budget can be surprisingly low.
PRACTICAL ADVICE BEFORE YOU GO
If you are planning a similar route, remember one thing above all: altitude, not distance, will be your greatest challenge.
• Allow enough time to acclimatise and do not be afraid to slow down. A few days seemingly “lost” at the start can save the entire expedition.
• Prepare for rapidly changing weather. Even during the dry season, thunderstorms can disrupt your plans.
• Watch out for local dogs, which often run out towards cyclists. They are usually not dangerous, but it is best to keep your distance and avoid close contact.
• Choose ultralight, highly packable equipment. At altitude, every gram matters, and a dependable down sleeping bag is invaluable.
The Cumulus® range includes down products with different constructions, fill weights and intended uses. This makes it easier to tailor your sleep system to the activity, season and your individual preferences.
FAQ: CYCLING IN THE ANDES
Do you need to acclimatise to the altitude?
Yes. On the La Paz–Cusco route, you spend most of the time above 3,600 m, and the highest point is 4,335 m. Several days of acclimatisation at the start are not a luxury but a prerequisite for completing the stage safely.
Which sleeping bag should you choose for nights at high altitude?
At elevations of 3,800–4,300 m, temperatures regularly drop below freezing. An ultralight, highly packable down sleeping bag with a comfort rating between -2 and -10°C works well, depending on your personal sensitivity to cold. In bike panniers, every gram counts.
How much does an expedition like this cost?
Day-to-day costs are low: a local set meal is around 1,90 à 2,30 € and accommodation typically costs 4,65–9,30 €. The flight, rather than daily expenses in Bolivia and Peru, is the largest cost.
When is the best time to go?
The dry season brings a lower chance of rain, but thunderstorms and large temperature swings between day and night are still possible.
PLANNING YOUR OWN CYCLING EXPEDITION IN THE MOUNTAINS?
Explore Cumulus® ultralight down sleeping bags and jackets, designed and made in Poland with attention to every gram and every seam, because details matter on the trail. For a sleeping bag tailored to your individual thermal needs, visit our sleeping bag Configurator.
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